DAY 19 [ Bali ] : Lazy Day

Wake up late and relax and that's about it.
Since we wake up so late, we make plans to see the island the following day.

DAY 18 [ Bali ] : Lobster-Tans and Speedos...

I woke up much earlier than Oki and wandered down to the beach to see an ocean view that stretched from ear to ear. I haven't been to the beach in about 2 years so it was quite a welcome sight to see the sun out, boats ripping by and people enjoying all forms of water sport including one that seems to be a fat raft, when pulled behind a jet boat, rises a few feet off the water.

I sit here now with my laptop updating my journal log with my cords hiked up feet in the sand. Usually the morning blog ritual has been in a dark room being very quiet as not to disturb Mister Oki, my ever slumbering traveling companion.

It's blistering hot outside but because the breeze coming off the ocean, it's quite nice out. Oki joined me for a quick lunch and we sat and talked and relaxed by the ocean. Time to put everything into low gear and relax for the next week right?

After a few hours an interesting thing happens to the beach. It starts to get bigger. Further and further it goes, the ocean backs out to sea. So far out until the beach is now about a third of a mile out from the hotel. Underneath the place where every kind of water sport was happening was a shallow sandbar. Time to take a walk.

Coral, rocks, starfish and farmers collecting seaweed all found there place out there. The faraway hotel, backlit by the sun, looked like a island palace.

We stayed in rest mode and ordered some room service. Our area is very quiet really and mostly full of Australian tourists over 40. Lobster-Tans and Speedos. We headed over to nearby city of Kuta with our TAKSI driver Madé. He lets us know that the club we are looking for is right next door to the club bombed in Bali in 2002 killing over 200 people. I don't think lightning stikes twice too often.

We get to the club we seek and it's dead. Maybe Sunday is a bad day. Maybe it's a bad area. Maybe it's just too early. After all it's only 11pm. The signs are there that something will happen because we keep passing fully staffed empty clubs.

After checking out the memorial of the bombing and getting offered all kinds of drugs and girls, we land at M BAR GO. The fun out going girls on the outside to lure us in were just that lures. I felt like all the other wayward male tourists, falling into this 'venus' flytrap. When the MC yelled out "This one goes out to all the ladies in the house!" Ladies!? You mean the 3 haggered New Zeland girls in the corner that look liked they held the gold, bronze & silver in the sun tanning olympics for the last 25 years. Uhhhh… no.

At around 1:30am the place picks up and we order some more drinks for Rp 50,000 for 2 drinks. (1 whiskey & 1 Beer $5.00). The price was right so I bought some bored looking local girls some drinks. Ayu & Putri were their names and they had never left the island of Bali ever! We had a nice chat, drank some more, danced and they since we had never been here before, they offered to show us around the island on the following day. That sounds good to me since we have no idea on what to see here.

We left the club at it's apex at 4am. Sunday at 4am... Who would have thought?

DAY 17 [ Tokyo / Bali ] : More Bang For Your Buck!!!

After doing the math the night before, we realize we have to be up at 6am. OUCH!
We take our 15 minute walk back to Shibuya Station. and catch the Narita Express for the 1 hour trip back to the airport where we really cut it close on getting to the flight. Need more time at bigger airports for customs and general line traffic.

We make it on the plane, fly to Hong Kong and, after a little layover, continue on to Bali. The flights seem to be getting shorter but I think I'm just getting used to it now. Perhaps the flight home will seem shorter than getting here or maybe I can learn the skill of sleeping without messing up my neck.

I should have been rating all our landings because this scores the lowest so far. I kept imagining flames out the windows and the plane going into a head to tow cartwheel.

The bumps and shimmys soon subsided and we taxi in and get off the plane on a ladder and get into the waiting busses like The Beatles but with less fanfare. Someday perhaps but It's nice seeing the plane from the underside on the tarmack

After a quick immigration and customs, I changed ¥100,000 JP ($111 US) left over from Tokyo as emergency money. The exchange rate gave me Rp 875,000. What a huge amount! I imagine everything must be pretty cheap here in Bali but I don't yet know the cost of good so we'll see.

After the assault of "taxi!?! Taxi!?!" We find a legit airport service to the hotel that cost Rp 65,000 ($6.50 US) for the 30 minute ride. Sounds like a great price to me considering that would only get you a few blocks in Tokyo. On the to of the car is spelled out 'TAKSI'.

So it roughly works out to moving the decimal over to the ten thousandth position to do a quick price comparison. A whiskey cost Rp 30,000 here so that equals $3.00 US. Ok that's really good! All I have is Rp 100,000 notes so I hope this won't be a problem.

We arrive at the Peninsula Resort and take a peek around. The lobby area has no doors it's just an open area between structures that leads to a walkway through a garden then out to the beach. I can't tell by night but it seems to be the ideal place to unwind and listen the ocean.

The all Indonesian staff is friendly and falling all over themselves to help us out, especially the bellboy Didi, whom we tipped Rp 5000 for being so cool to carry our bags and show us the room.

DAY 16 [ Tokyo / Yokahama / Kamakura ] : Pleasure Cruise...

Mr. Fujiki's sent his chauffeur for us at 10 am to take us to 30 minutes south to Yokahama for lunch and onto Katakutra for sightseeing. While Oki sleeps in the comfy chairs of the interior Luxury Van, I soak up the surrounding view outside wishing I could be napping too.

We arrive at Yokahama a bit early for Mr. Fujiki and get driven around Chinatown for a bit. This is the largest Chinatown outside of China.

We get to the port terminal of Yokaham just in time for lunch and meet up with Mr. Fujiki and a friend who runs a sightseeing company locally. The Port Terminal is a modern design of steel and wood.

We boarded a giant buffet boat ship that Mr. Fujiki owns and headed up to the upper deck to eat. The ship was white, carried a crew of 50, had 5 levels and is well over 150 feet long. For lunch we had a Chinese buffet with accompaniment by a piano player and violin as the white flag of the ship flaps on the bow just out the front window.

We cruised around Yokahama harbor for a couple hours and had desert in Mr. Fujiki's State Room. I felt as if we were meeting a big crime boss since I was sitting across a giant wooden table from this good natured, rotund man in sunglasses. After some chatting a knock at the door brings in a balloon animal artist who conjured up a giraffe for OKI and a cat for myself. Oh no that wasn't all... Another man entered and 'dazzled' us with some sleight of hand card tricks.
We took pictures with the captain and toured the engine room before leaving the boat and Mr. Fujiki.

We headed 30 minutes further south to Kamakura where we met Mr. Tanaka and an ex-patriot named Karthick for a tour of several temples including a giant bronze Buddha.

Mr. Fujiki joins us, with two girls in tow, and we had dinner at a Korean BBQ place on the second level of a building that overlooked the beach. Katakura is so different in feeling to the structured Tokyo. It's a more relaxed beach town that reminds me a bit of Laguna Beach.

For after dinner drinks we were taken to a small bar where we were treated to the guitar stylings of two former members of the Japanese surf band, SHARP 5. I think they had mad a small splash some 20 years earlier but now they kind of have a two man act and play to the six patrons of this micro bar complete with mini light show and props. A real treat to sip ones scotch over.

Before we make the trek back to Tokyo we were driven to, the appropriately titled, TYCOON for desert. This is also owned by Mr. Fujiki and caters to all Asian styles of cooking except Japanese. I was totally stuffed from all this eating so I had some apple juice. I think I've had 30 gallons on this trip so far.

A late night drive back gave time to reflect over one of our biggest days yet. It's too late to connect with our friends again and we head off to bed.

DAY 15 [ Tokyo ] : in progress

In Progress

DAY 14 [ Tokyo ] : in progress

in progress

DAY 13 [ Hong Kong > Toyko ] : Can I get a little 'Space' with my 'Station'?

We wake up way to early and walk a few blocks in the warm rain to the station that will pick us up for the ride to HK international. Travel days seem to be ending up this way. After about a 5 hour flight, we are in Tokyo. Konichiwa! We score big and get short customs lines. Oki and I take the escalator to down, buy tickets and get onboard the Narita Express for the hour ride to Shibuya in the heart of Tokyo. I'm glad I've done this before because I'd be lost otherwise because it was rush hour at our destination and difficult to maneuver with so many people bustling in the station.

Finally out on the street in front of Shibuya Station it'’s teaming with activity. Business men, teenagers, rockers, and of course school girls. Across from the station is the world busiest cross-walk in the world. A million people a day pass through here at around 5,000 per crossing. It's amazing to see such a small place wall to wall with people in 5 seconds and gone just as fast after just under a minute of cross time.

Up the hill from the station is our Tokyo home, Tokyu Stay, an apartment style hotel with a mini kitchen and washer/dryer. The room is small but adequate.

After a short rest we head off to Shinjuku and wander around but I think because it's Sunday and a bit rainy, it'’s kind of dead. Time for some sleep...…

DAY 12 [ Hong Kong ] : Tourist Traps

On our last night in Hong Kong we opt for, what all the tourist guides and 'must see' lists make a point of mentioning the 'Festival of Lights' in Hong Kong bay. 36 buildings with various lighting effects are connected together and synced up to music to create the most uninteresting yawnfests of all time. The presentation was more suited to a late 70's Vegas show. You know the one where the sexy girl gets into a breakaway cage and white tiger jumps out with a Rhinestone encrusted collar on. Please listen to my advice and SKIP THIS ATTRACTION!

Trying to fight off the sleep from our last 'adventure', we hit the practically dead Club / Bar section of the city just off Central Station. We could have figured it would be hopping since it was MONDAY NIGHT.

Back to rest up for the hustle and bustle of Tokyo awaits. At this point, we have no idea what awaits us...

DAY 12 [ Hong Kong ] : The Name Game

Oki and I have been playing this game we came up with.
Goes like this...

Jason71 : "Hey Oki, have you met my uncle?"
OKI: "No, what does he he do?"
Jason71: "Oh him? He likes to eat his own clothes."
OKI: "Really? That's crazy! What's his name?"
Jason71: "Chow Tai"

( cymbal crash )

DAY 12 [ Hong Kong ] : This Trip Is Ferry Nice...

First thing today we catch a ferry accross the bay to Hong Kong Island. From the bay you can really get a beautiful view of the city. The sky scrapers are modern, well over 60 stories and so dense they all look connected. This in conjunction with the placed looking trees and the emence super highways, it looks as if we are trapped inside a model trainset.

We took the long walk to the tram that will take us to Victorias Peak, the highest point in Hong Kong. I can't quite put into words just how amazing the vista is from here. You can see all of the bay, around the back side of Hong Kong island and off into the ocean. Shipping is huge here and in the distance you can see hundreds of giant orange and red spider-like cranes lifting thousands of multi-colored, semi truck sized, cargo boxes into giant stacks for sorting.





It's well over 100º F and again we are soaked to the core. Me so much that you can see the white rings of salt from my sweat on my black t-shirt.

We rested headed over to a temple and looked for as many places to duck into for a blast of A/C.

We took a round about ride on the metro around Kowloon to see more of the bay ending up at our only sunset in Hong Kong. I don't know if I have every been more in the prefect place at the perfect time. We couldn't have planned it any better.

DAY 11 [ Hong Kong ] : Bamboozeled

Around Hong Kong you can see the scaffolding of the many construction projects here in Hong Kong. No matter how many stories these moden structures are they all are surrounded by scaffoldings made of bamboo covered in green cloth. Sometimes 70 stories tall, lashed together, one by one, to make what must be the strongest and most abundant thing on hand.

DAY 11 [ Shanghai > Hong Kong ] : Young Man! There's No Need To be Down...

Wake up and late still a bit tossed from the night before. We pack fast, have a quick bite with Auntie Wendy and her Mahjong buddies at the house and catch a cab to the airport. I'm certaily going to miss her coffee. It's the best in Asia so far.

Some airport delays kept on on the tarmack about an hour before we left to Hong Kong. I hate just sitting without going anyplace. I tend to get a bit squirmy.

After a couple hours, we arrived at our trusted travel hub, Hong Kong Internaional Airport. Finally, this time, we are staying for a couple days. We step off the plane and right to the desk where we need to be to catch our hour bus ride to the recommended YMCA. I was told it was fairly priced and right in the heart of Hong Kong in lower Kowloon.

It's dark when we check in, rest for a bit an and go out for a walk to try to find a place to get a drink. The temperature is well over 90º F at night with over 80% humidity. The heat is actually quite silly.

Around Hong Kong you can see so many traces of the English. From Soccer to very moden double decker busses to a place called Victorias Peak. All traces of the United Kindoms expanse into South East Asia.

After a long walk up the center of town we head back soaked in sweat instead of rain. I don't think this is any better though.

DAY 10 [ Shanghai ] : Can You Hit That Shang-hi Note?

Resting mostly today to rest up for a last Shanghai push into the late evening. We found a place spend our evening but it ends up being another hard core dance club. I try my hardest to get a scoth but, like every other bar in this town, they only have Chivas Blended Whiskey. It's weird to look behind the bar of a club and see bottle after bottle of the same thing... Whom ever does their PR, I'm going to hire. After a brief hang we leave to meet up with some friends to say our last goodbyes and Karaoke into the night.

... and oh what fun we had. I think I drank quite too much.

DAY 10 [ Shanghai ] : Jawbone Of An Ass

At some point during the last couple days in Taipei, I popped my jaw out of socket somehow. Perhaps with all the gum I chew, i have developed giant jaw muscles or maybe it's grinding when I sleep. Anyhow, It has shifted forward a micro amount putting all the pressure bearing down on one tooth preventing ANY other teeth from touching.

The human jaw exerts 200 lbs of pressure per square inch and now all that force is down to the head of a pin. I can't do the math on that but all i know is that it's an adventure. With an accidental chomp and ... (((CLACK))) "OUCH!!!" It's like a hammer hitting my front tooth next to my canine screaming "HEY!!! DON'T FORGET ABOUT ME!!! I'M RIGHT HERE.... IN THE FRONT... JUST HANGING OUT!!!" I should name my attention starved tooth in hopes that he stops giving me that painful morning alarmclock because a good nights sleep is becoming a distant memory so let's call him... SAMPSON. Apparently, he's the jawbone and I'm the ass.

My back teeth are geting lonely since they have not been together in about a week and my stomach is starting to get a bit miffed from giving him loads of unchewed food. I really need to figure someting out.

For two days now, without success, I've been pushing and pulling on my jaw in hopes it will pop back into place. It's a bit sore from that yanking so I should probably stop right? I might end up completely dislocating it and and up if face traction or something stupid. What a sight? .. but the pictures would be priceless!

DAY 9 [ Shanghai ] : Red Flags

Went over to a rooftop club in the heart of the Bund. Once it was headquarters for a foreign embassy, Now the ground floor is the Hugo Boss store. Although the view was amazing and the weather perfect, the clientelle was mostly international businessmen, travelers over 35 and local girls looking to score. The truely amazing thing about the patrons was whatever country that person was from it was the most cliché version possible. The Americans were SO American. The French were SO French. And last but not least, Deeter the German Architect who was SO VERY German, his blood only flowed in right angles.



A few years back, upon the flagpole of the embassys flew the Flag of the country that occupied it. Now when you look accross the Bund it's red flags with yellow stars. The flag of Communist China. OK, let me just get this straight... I'm in a club on top of a commercial store, drinking very expensive whiskey, listening to bad house music and above me flies the Red flag of Communism? Hmmm...



The funny reality about this part of China is that if you are below a certain strata, you are Communist and above is Capitalist and somehow both concepts can coexist together with no middle class. I sit in this million dollar condow watching non-unioned workers outside busting ass round the clock for 800 RMB per month. That comes out to around $100.

DAY 9 [ Shanghai ] : This Place Is So Backwards...

Yes that's right! You can actually buy a BEER named REEB...



... and chicken from the Colonel... (kinda)



We spent today resting and picking up our suits. Shanghai Reservoir Dogs style.

We're going to go out to a club later but for now we rest!

DAY 8 [ Shanghai ] : ... and Mao for Something Completly Different

Today is such great weather. The river keeps the breeze moving so the heat is not all that bad with barely any humidity.



We wandered around the Bund and saw some of the touristy sights before we headed back to the tailors for a final fitting. Everything was in order and we can pick up our finished items tomorrow. A two day turnaround on a custom suit is pretty amazing at any price.



Oki and I jumped into a taxi with Auntie Wendy to meet up with Uncle Monte. We went out for steak at a favorite spot of theirs. The food is good and I got to try some new things that looked back at me while I ate it's insides out.

The taxi drivers drivers are encased in a giant plastic, Soup Plantaion like sneezeguard.



Lots of men on the streets doing the 'APS' or 'Asian Power Squat'.



Someone suggested we see some of the night markets where for a couple bucks you can buy Louis Vitton, Cartier, Channel and on and on. It was quite an assault of street people asking "Wanna buy some DVD? Wanna nice purse? Rolex Rolex Rolex?"





After sitting at a bar for a bit and watching the local hookers attempt to get a 'date', we hit a hot pot place with a new Szechuan friend. Szechuan is a region of china where all the spicy food comes from and she insisted we GO SPICY. I don't think I have ever been in so much pain. The food is amazing but the burn is almost unbearable. I think this meal might come back to haunt me later...

DAY 7 [ Shanghai ] : How do I say 'Waffle Cone' in Chinese?

We go to the mall to find a Chinese translator for Oki. You might as well be in New York or Los Angeles. They have everything a major US department store would. They even have a Hagen Daz complete with young girls in millitant little skirts and barets. All they needed were little red books and the picture would have been complete.

As we stroll around, Uncle Monte tells me about how he worries how the new Chinese generation will be. Because of population restraints the Chinese people are allowed only one child and no more. If you somehow become pregnant again you are forced to terminate the pregnancy. You can see, here and there, how having a population of only children with everything available to them so cheaply makes everyone under the age of 25 into a kind of Veruca Salt. "I want it now!"

We went to the Jin Mao Tower where the Hyatt takes up the top 30 floors and has an open core starting at 50 and going up to the top of the building. It looks very much like the shaft from Willy Wonka where Charlie and Grandpa dancecd with death, drank Wonka's 'Fizzy Lifting Drink' and flew toward the silver blades of his, lift assisting, ceiling fan before grandpa realized burping was "...THE ONLY WAY!"







Accross the street was the Pearl Tower. It's straight out of Disney's tomorrowland.
A little bit of science and a little bit of cheese.



I wonder if all our days are going to stay this full?

DAY 7 [ Shanghai ] : Cut From A Different Cloth

Wake up, shower and have a quick lunch here before running out. Vegetables mostly and very little meat. Auntie Wendy says to never buy vegetables at a restaurant because they don't wash them or aren't fresh enough. These taste amazing, like they were just pulled from the ground and prepared by the maid about 5 minutes later. The maid is a simple farm girl who's chinese name escapes me right now. She is very curious about me because i can see her looking at me in reflections and checking out the details of my person like my freckles. I don't think she's been around any non-chinese people that much.

Oki and I jump in the taxi and went to the fashion district. You can find a tailor and get some fabric and they will make you anything you want. We are getting black suits. I'm also thought some cords and a shirt would be good too.



After that we ate lunch AGAIN! I'm going to be a house when I return. I don't know how people can or want to eat so much.

We walked toward the river that snakes it's way through downtown Shanghai and over to the ferry to cross the water. Monte and Wendy wanted to take us to the other side of Shanghai to show us their investment property that they had recently acquired. $8,000 US a month and worth every penny. A view rivaling only the one from the other house with all the amenities.

From the ferry ride you can see the sky is the most beautiful dark slate grey sky against the evenly spaced out silver buildings. Buck Rogers only wished he had it this good.

DAY 6 [ Shanghai ] : If you crouch your tiger, you want me to hide my dragon!?

Like every tech savy person, OKI and I drop our bags and pop open our laptops to see if we can get a connection...

Searching... ... ... ... BINGO!!! We have a wireless connection.

Uncle Monte thinks Oki and I should have our feet massaged since we were walking so long. We walked accross the street and went into this little little place and Monte made the deal. Looks like back massages are on the program too. RAD! I get dragged to a back room where the curtain is closed. My girl takes off my shoes and proceedes to give me the worst massage ever. It's the backrub you get from your girlfriend who hates to give back massages. We've all gotten one and it was no good!!! I tried to relax and even started slipping into a sleepy place, when... "Huh?? What?? Ahh yes..." the girl taps me and motions for me to leave the backroom. I open the curtain to see 10 Chinese Police officers for a surprise inspection and were crammed in a space that could maybe hold 12 comfortably. They like to show up in force to check licences and make sure there's no sexxy rub going on. If there is it's little payola and they are on their way to another shop and a potential un-happy ending for someone else.

DAY 6 [ Shanghai ] : Speeding on the Bullet Train & Hitting the Language Barrier

We make our way through health quarantine, customs and try to find our transport into Shanghai via the Mag-Lev or Bullet Train.

The Train travels at a speed of 270mph and takes about 9 minutes to go the 30 miles we need to go. Although the train is smooth, you really feel the speed since you are so low to the ground and the surrounding streets and buildings look like a minature beacuse you can't see the cars or people moving. You get a snapshot and then you are gone. If you pass another 200 foot Mag-Lev train going the other way, it's gone in a blink literally. If you are facing the other way, you wouldn't have time to turn your head when you hear the sound, to see the aqua and orange striped train blur past.



We arrive at the station and have to catch the Metro near to where Geoffs Uncle Monte and Auntie Wendy live. I'm not sure what to expect but it's been great to have crash pads and not have to spend any cash. Turns out it was rush hour and we got stuck an extra stop because the train was full and we couldn't get off.

Back on track, we're on foot and walking to get a taxi to no avail so we walk...
This is another moped driven city that seems to flow in a weird chaos that baffles me. It's the weirdest word problem ever.
Q. How can you pass twenty mopeds, fifteen cars and thirty people all through the same space at the same time all coming from different directions?
A. You can't... but somehow the math works in this city and it all flows.

Somehow the rain found our forwarding address and catching a cab is impossible. We are all the way accross town from where we are supposed to be but the view from where we are is straight out of Star Wars. Unique shapes and ultra modern. It looks like all of the high rises were built in the last 5-10 years except the old ones (circa 20's-30's) around the Bund used to house the embassys.



Half the worlds cranes reside in Shanghai and since the property value is so high, the city tears down the old two story buildings and put up new 80 story high rises for the 'good of the people'. Communism versus Commercism.



After a couple hours walking, we arrive at the aunt and uncles place. What I didn't know was this is a three story, 2 million dollar condo with the best view of Shanghai you can possibly get. The furniture is ornate with gold leaf and could have been lifted from a museum exibit. Uncle Monte is a mellow, good natured guy who is one notch above stowic leaning toward bemused. Auntie Wendy is a majong player and a smoker who reminds me alot of my grandmother so I like her already.

DAY 6 [ Taipei >Hong Kong > Shanghai ] : Everybody Loves... Freebird?

We wake up at 6am pack fast, have a quick bite, say good bye to Uncle Moses and Auntie Allen and jump back on the Evergreen bus to the airport. I am so tired but not as much as Oki who's been managing to catch a lot more shut eye than me.

Although the lines are long, it goes fairly smooth and painless getting to the plane for the the short flight back to Hong Kong and then on to China.





We switch to Dragon Air in HK for the leg to Shanghai and I'm excited about new things to see. Shanghai is still considered Communist China. Will the inflight movie be an indoctrination video? ... no it means we get 'Everybody loves raymond' with Chinese subtitles and 'Freebird' by Lynard Skynard pumped through the headphones during taxi, takeoff and well into the flight. I forgot how damn long that song was.



The clean white plane had a giant graphic red dragon on it's tail and light blue / dark blue interior, was right out of a 60's lookbook. It even came with beautiful stewardesses english equvalent names like Jenny, Sue or Jane to complete the picture.

Day 5 [ Taipei ] : Higher & Higher

Just when I thought I was making progress with my wakeup time, i'm bright eyed at 5:30am. I gave in and decided to be productive and add some pictures to the journal.

Ate a traditional Chinese lunch here at the house with Geoffs Uncle Moses & Auntie Allen. The have have been very cool to take us out for most meals and let us crash here. Their english is good and I feel right at home. All except for the part where I keep having to take off my shoes every time I come back. The slippers provided for me are not wide enough for my feet. They fit over the tips of my fat feet and that's about all.

We head out for the day to tackle the observatory deck of the Taipei 101 building. When completed it reached into the sky at 1666 feet and is now the tallest building in the world with the fastest elevator to match. Who could resist a walk in the clouds. Well that's almost what it was like because the weather had turned bad and a thick cover had rolled in. Although I would have liked to have seen further, the view was still amazing and I could have stayed all day. We dropped like rocks in the elevator and split to the food court and then back to the house.






Pouring and pouring again but this time we are prepared for the long walk back in the rain.
Disposable yellow rain ponchos! They cost $20 NT ($0.62). Cheap enough to wonder...
Why did we not clue into this earlier?



Back at the house for a last dinner out.
Eating has become a big part of our time here in Taiwan.
Almost like an endurance test. Actually, I'm full right now.

We changed some money here at the house with Auntie Allen instead of at the airport. The family gave us a much better exchange rate. We are now we are flush with stacks of Chinese bills. Kinda makes me want to find a craps table.
Do they have that in Shanghai? I'll have to brush up on Majong if I want any sort of 'action'.

We're going to grab last drinks at a place called Underworld then hit the sack. We leave for Shanghai at 6:50am. Maybe it's good I wasn't waking up at 10am after all.

Internet might be dodgy in China so I might not post for a few.

DAY 4 [ Taipei ] : The Vegas Effect

Once you step out of the shower, you are all wet again until you hit what we call 'THE VEGAS EFFECT'.
The general outside the temperature is well above 90º degrees F. You go outside, YOU SWEAT. Say you want a delicious beverage, a little snack or pick up those pumps you just can't find back home...?

Just walk into any store and you will experience a heart shocking drop in temperature of almost 20º degrees F.
NO JOKE! The shops are kept in the low 70's. I don't know how everybody doesn't have pneumonia.

DAY 4 [ Taipei ] : The Sun WILL NOT come out tomorrow...

Awake at 8:30 am! Finally, I think I'm getting shifted to this timezone.

Today was Sunday. Since we've been walking and seeing so much, we just took it kind of easy.

A quick shower and off to an early lunch. I don't know why I even bother.

Since the weather was clear and not rainy we took the metro train to the far end of town to see the harbour. It was a perfect seaside picture. A nice light breeze whistled around us while families strolled around playing games and eating food like squid on a stick. The ocean and sky were a light grey and the normally rolling green hills had lost it's color to the hazy mist. It kind of looked giant black and white prints of a harbor.



As we walked to the very end of the walkway, the grey became more grey and the light breeze became quite stiff. Within 5 minutes the picturesque scene had become 'typhoon lagoon'. Rain rain rain!!! Thousands of people now scrambled back to the trains. Soaked to the bone again! At least we had our umbrellas this time.



Back home. Watched some Taiwan TV and took a nap.

Went to Warner Plaza to the food court to get some french fries and people watch. Even thousands of miles away from the States, it's amazing how 'the same' we all are as cultures. Shopping, hanging out with friends, catching a movie and eating at Burger King. There's something both comforting and disturbing in this infusion of cultures. On the downside, you can almost hold your breath and make it to the next starbucks, 7-11 or McDonalds without having to take another gasp. One never has to be without your Diet Coke or Grandé Latte for too long. BUT On the upside, in 2000 years there will be no more pure ethnicities. People have gone from being half of this and half of that to one quarter and one eighth. Soon you can have a couple that is made up of all Axis counties on one side and all Allied on the other. The world will be raceless with a couple less things to worry about. Besides, Mutts are much cooler anyway.

DAY 3 : Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow...

After dinner we were treated to foot massages by the aunt and uncle Moses. This is called reflexologly and it's believed that the entire body is mirrored on the foot. Pressure is put on a specific place and that helps the corresponding part of the body (or booty if you hit the right spot). Anyhow, the family that rubs together...

As I whice a bit from sometimes uncomfortable pressure, I notice Oki is sitting silently with his jaw open wide. Looks like it hurts a bit but like I told him, "No pain, no gain!" I'm not really sure what he's gaining really by enduring this but it was amusing to see him squirm around and try to make it through without yelping. I think a let out a "yip" or two. You may now call me butterfeet.

My non-shavenness has 'grown' into a super uncomfortable state. My options are to buy a $50 shaver which I will use once or save all the way for the first time in a couple years. I'll be back to a shadowed state in a week and no one will be the wiser. I gave in and decided to see the 8am shadow. After about 20 minutes I emerge from the bathroom where, Oki says I look 10 years younger. Reborn with a naked face. Now to match my bad haircut to look like a marine or some shit. I don't think i've been so clean cut looking in about a decade. Definately not into it but Oki's aunt likes it and suggests I shave every day.

On the way to our night adventures we stop at the free Taipei Pop Festival to see the Justin Timberlake equivalent called Se7en. You'ld think phrases like "Let me hear you say, ho!" were over but no, that's not the case. They all reside here in the island of misfit phrases. "Come on! Feel the Vibration!" Didn't this end with C&C music factory?

After a small dodging of taxis & mopeds we arrive a LUXY. A two level nightclub on the 5th floor with 3 rooms of music. Lots of people to talk to IF YOU SPEAK CHINESE. Several white guys cruise the crowd looking for prey and an Indian guy in a shirt with a huge 'YELLOW FEVER' printed in a kind of Iron Maiden font. I spoke very little to the patrons but Mister Oki was working the room and making it all friendly. Again I say, thank god for Oki or I'd be one of those creepy white guys.

Honorable mention is the drunk couple doing a sort of spastic-throb-grinding-falling-down makeout against a gold leaf framed, Emmett Kelly picture. It's a version of that Norman Rockwell painting where the artist looks in the mirror and paints himself. Ummmm.... yeah.



At 5:30am I figure I'll be able to sleep in and finaly get my schedule on track!!!

DAY 3 : You can't teach an old dog new kicks

I'm trying to get myself on Taipei time but i only managed to sleep a little bit longer today.
7:30am is not going to cut it if I plan to have any sort of night life that doesn't involve yawning or sleeping in public but perhaps that's the best way to fit in. Come on... everybody's doing it!

After having a late sushi brunch, OKI and I trucked off for the Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial. Chiang Kai-Shek was the former President of China and sought to reunitfy China while fighting Chinese Communists. A massive staicase leads up to the giant building which was constructed of giant white stone blocks and has royal blue tiles for the roof. This place is BIG!



After 100,000 miles, I finally had to retire my trusty Converse All Stars for some Taipei Brown, New Balance sneaks. These retirees will be featured on the cover of the New, limited edition eskimohunter release available on So Sweet Records. No joke! It's a re-release of some older material with a bunch of videos and etc...

The Museum of Contemporary Arts was very close so we hit that. Saw some interesting video installations including Werner Herzogs 'the 10,000 years older'. A nice get a way from the heat. There was something like art/day care for children around 9 years old. They were all making objects out of brightly colored construction paper. They each stood up to present them but i couldn't visualy decifer what they had made. I kept having the overwhelming urge to jump in front of them and do my best chicken dance. Do I need to get more sleep?

Ouside the sky has opened up into a terenchal downpour and i think the drops are the size of small jawbreakers. We are both soaked to the bone in 50 feet, flat! Oki's Aunt let me know, on the way to dinner, that we brought the rain. She told me it wasn't like this until we arrived. Sorry Taipei.

DAY 2 : Snake Alley and the Dancing Queen

We headed back to do some shopping. I still need to find a shaver.
We went to a giant department store and all they have is 1 shaver on 12 floors for $1600 NT which is about $50 US.
I think that's right but I'm still not quite sure. Didnt feel like dropping that much cash for something that should be about $10. And so it grows...

After a couple hour nap we headed out to Snake Alley. This is where you can have a snake killed in front of you and drink it's blood. The idea sounds like one of those MUST DO on vacation things but seeing the snake dangling there slit from it's jaw to the end of it's tail writhing about... I just didn't have the stomach. It didn't even have the ritualistic feeling you'ld think. Just a guy with a headset going through the motions for the hundredth time. Kinda like that guy at the swap meet with the potato cutter that makes crinckle fries in 4 sizes.

Food options were abundant so I opted for some dough balls coated lightly with sugar. I don't think the dough minded.

On the way back to the station we slid into a temple where, today is a day to celebrate the dead. People praying around the most beautifuly decorations. It was very overwhelming to see. The incence was thick in the air and there all kinds of food items on tables. Offerings for the dead I think. Canned fruit, bottles of water, boxed food. I think this must be a sign of the times where freesh fruit and vegetables would have been used before. Now at least you can stop in at the 7-11 and pickup what you need on the way.

Wandered around a bit more looking for a bar or some place to hang before bed and saw a restaurant with fluffy white cats tied up at each table. I have no idea about this one.

We finally found a bar called 'Capones'. I ordered a scotch and OKI had himself something called Thaiwan gold. The jazz band started rocking to 'Dancing Queen' by ABBA in blurry english and all the Europeaons started to dance.

Can this trip get any better?

DAY 2 : Ivory Balls & Snip Snip Snip...

6:30am and can't sleep a bit more. I just would like to get a few more hours but it's not going to happen. The buildings accross the street are just far enough apart to kick the sun into my room at the CRACK of dawn.

Oki and I ate a small breakfast with his aunt and headed over to the Taiwan National Museum. The Museum is a giant fortress set into the rolling green hills with orange and lt. Blue tiles. From the top you can see a bit of the valley where the clouds just coat the tip tops of the hills. It really looks like a painting from a scroll in the museum.



Lots of carvings and caligraphy but the highlight was an ornate ivory ball with 17 other intricately ivory balls inside of it. There is a chain extending up from the top of the ball and some ornaments from the bottom. The amazing thing is that it's all carved from one piece. You can't even believe it when you are seeing it.



We head back to the train station and I decide I need a haircut. Traveling in the rainy season with extra locks equals a big pain in the ass to a guys who hair is better descibed as a chemistry experiment than a having a bit of product. I find a place, head inside and open a look book to help show the non-english speaking kids what i want... NONE OF THE ABOVE... I motion to my head and indicate smaller but obviously from the results i think i made the 'invisible' or 'make it all go away' sign somehow. Ah yes... the follies of travel but a good cut for traveling.

DAY 1 : Everything I own is wet, at least I have the internet

Plug-in, turn on & drop out...
Luckily some neighbor has an unprotected wireless connection.

I think I've changed chaged my socks 3 times. So wet outside. Lets hope I don't get trenchfoot.

In this town, if you're not a scooter, you're a taxi.



The tallest building in the world is called the Taipei 101 building and is about a mile away. It's amazing!



On the way there we saw the changing of the guards and giant kites at the Sun Yet Sen Memorial.



Domios Pizza comes with snow peas.

Went to the night market. It's best describled as if Melrose and a Swapmeet collided. I have not figured out the currency yet so I have no idea what anything costs but OKI has the rainman ability to tell me how much $673 HK is almost instantly. Thank god he's here or i'd be wandering lost on the streets of Taipei.

I do not like the smell of stinky tofu.

DAY 1 : Welcome to Taipei

The plane was barely full. OKI and I got the chance to spread out a bit. Ironic because the seats were bigger and further apart. Ah well... Too bad the flight is only an hour.

I had a window for the last leg and the clouds were so big a fluffy. The bolts on the wing of the plane had left dark trails along the metal from the force of the wind as bits of moisture trailed past the thick plastic of the window. Although it's harsh on the otherside of the window it looks so peaceful.



We land at in Taipei and I cant get over how green everything is until i step outside of the terminal...
Total greenhouse. Reminds me of a Louisiana summer.

Hopped on the appropriatly called 'evergreen bus' and made our way into downtown Taipei. A nice round man with long white nostril hair was the only other passenger. He kept talking about the Bee-Gees coming to town.



We arrived at our destination at OKi's uncles house and settle in for the next week.

And now begins THE RAIN

Hong Kong International Airport

We arrived for our connection to Taiwan at HK international airport. An island was leveled to make this giant air terminal that looks like a giant parachute just before it hits the ground. Outside is a thick cloud layer hugging the surrounding mountains and islands visible all around. We only had about an hour to freshen up and to decide....

Duty Free or not to Duty Free?



I forgot to shave before I left and my 'packing light' plan didn't include a shaver.
Just socks, underwear and minimal clothing.

Off to catch our plan to Taiwan...

Jason71 Leaving LA

So much to do and I worked up until the very last second it seems.

Oki and I Left LA late Tuesday night with the help of our madman driver Chris Angulo. Although I thought we'd get there late, Chris comes from the Steve McQueen driving school and deposited up to the curb with 5 min. to spare. We waitited in long lines and got on the plane to find a nice palm reader named Grace sitting next to us. Grace insisted we give her the aisle because she needed to pee alot. "yes of course." She was visiting the Philippines and was very nice.



Lots of sleep on the plane was made difficult by the non-working headrest and my palm reading, seat neighbor aka: "elbows". I managed to finally find some comfort and slipped off to sleep...